Flickr Photo Credit: TrekHound.Com
Read all about our journey into the Holy Land.
Getting ourselves from Jordan to Israel proved to be logistically challenging. Upon getting up early to catch the first bus over the northern border crossing to Nazareth, we made our way to the station and waited until the departure time only to be told the bus would not be going after all. Apparently, while the Trust Bus Company operates smoothly from domestic locations, they wait to see how many customers show up for the border crossing trip before they decide whether or not the bus will go that day. On this particular morning it was David, myself and one other backpacker from Germany . . . not enough for a go. So, the three of us decided to chip in on a cab to the same border crossing we’d been destined for on the bus. Simple, right? Wrong.
First, we had to flag down a taxi driver who spoke enough English to understand what we wanted to do. Then, apparently there was some sort of permit necessary to drive to that area and get us through the first series of checkpoints. (This was figured out after several sessions of charades, taxi switches and kiosk stops before finally getting on our way.) Next, we had to find a driver that actually wanted to drive that far (this also took several tries), and someone who understood which station we wanted to cross at (several additional changes of direction, highway swaps and frantic cell phone calls).
Once all that was accomplished, we finally arrived at the northern crossing and all its various checkpoints. In context, this was actually a piece of cake. Although there were multiple checkpoints and bag checks, the lines were short and the border officials very helpful and friendly. Across the border now, we problem solved a couple of taxi swaps, the ATM, had lunch and made our way to Tiberias on the shores of the sea of Galilea.
Not much there, but picturesque it was and an amazing experience to be able to grab some solitude in a place where Christ spent so much time. After an overnight there, it was off to Haifa via a 2-3 hour stopover in Nazareth to visit the spot where Mary was visited by the the angel Gabriel. As a port city, Haifa was not half bad. There are a few museums, some decent restaurants and of course the world center for the Bahai faith.
Akko was close by, and we overnighted there as well. From here we headed to Tel Aviv. We didn’t find much touristy to do here, but is a clean modern city, and a convenient place to catch up on travelers’ errands such as email, phone calls, laundry and pharmaceuticals. The markets in the Yemeni quarter were quite fun to explore and photograph, and the beach was long and well-groomed. We enjoyed watching sunset there, and walking along the water one day to spend the day down to Jaffa, a town founded by one of Noah’s sons.
From Tel Aviv, it was off by bus to spend holy week in Jerusalem. We entered through the Jaffa Gate and spent our first night at a place with an excellent rooftop view of the city and Dome of the Rock. We spent several days exploring the holy sites, such as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the stations of the cross, the wailing wall, tomb of Mary, garden of Gethsemane, the Dome of the Rock and the temple mount. In addition to the sites and alleys of the old city, we also went into the newer section to see the Church of the Holy Cross and the excellent Israeli National Museum. This museum deserves at least one full day if not more. We spent an entire day at high speed and had not the time to see everything before we left. It is the home to a scale model of the ancient city as it once appeared, a walkable outdoor modern art gallery, archaeological park, ancient coin and antique costume displays, and art works from nearly every master you can think of.
It is also home to the enormous Shrine of the Book, a museum in its own right. The Shrine of the Book is home to an extremely well done display and presentation of the Dead Sea Scrolls. We had seen a few fragments of the copper scroll and some recreated models of them in Amman, Jordan. The bulk of the scrolls and the displays related to them are at this shrine, however. Very thoroughly and serenely done.
After Jerusalem, we made our way to Eilat to spend the night and cross the border the next day back to Aqaba, where we would grab the ferry to the Sinai. There, our original plan was to make the pilgrimage to St. Catherine’s Monastery and the top of Mount Sinai, were Moses received the ten commandments. Due to weather and illness however, we spent our time convalescing on the beach for a few days in Dahab, before heading over to Kuwait.
There, we would be visiting friends for a couple of weeks before heading back to Amman to pet sit. Kuwait has changed a great deal since I was last there. Massive new construction and road development, most remembered landmarks replaced and the traffic nearly double what it was when I was there just 5 years ago. It was nice to see old friends and have a few more times at my old restaurant hangout – Palm Palace.
Upon our return to Amman, we have been enjoying spending time with the animals. We miss our own two dogs, so it’s been pure pleasure to bestow extra affection on these two. The cat, Freeway, has also been a source of nearly constant hilarity. Additionally, we have been catching up on some much needed rest, writing and photo sorting, as starting our “to do” list for when we get back home.
I never saw this one. It’s really good and a real taste of just what it takes to get where you want to be.